Beijing 2009: a crazy culture trip

Posted: Friday, 24 April 2009 | Posted by Harry Harris | Labels: , , , , , , ,











Sunset over Bei Hei Park


Jing Ling Great Wall hike



On the 27th March 2009 I set off to Beijing as part of a government funded study China program which involved 3 weeks of mandarin lessons, lectures on the economy and culture, and getting involved in activities like Tai chi which off course originated in the eastern country.
I already had a personal interest in China, with it's unique culture and increasing presence in global affairs alongside various controversial topics and this trip allowed me to explore all these things, and a lot more...

Here is a tour of the highlights:

On arrival


On arrival in the chinese capital on Saturday the 28th March I was expecting an immediate culture shock. Instead I experienced the extremely calm and pretty much deserted space of the airport, which is huge and, like the Birdsnest, amazingly shaped.
Outside, there are no taxi drivers scrambling for tourists or crowds of people jostling to leave or enter, in-fact it was utterly quiet, even the university volunteers who had come to collect us were carrying Olympic like ceremonial flags to direct us to our transport.
At arrival at Beijing Normal University, where we were to study for the next 3 weeks, we were supplied with a 'gift' which consisted mainly of a jam-packed timetable.

Nihao!!!
The mandarin begins: AT 8AM

After a day off on Sunday, but still in a 7 hour jet-lag daze, the program began with Mandarin lessons at 8am, and then an 'informal' discussion with students - they were as interested about the U.K as we were about China, but our questions were perhaps more investigative.
Like me, there was clearly alot of Europeans who had some delving questions they wanted to ask, although at this moment the ground was still being felt and I didn't jump in on the one-child policy or Tibet. Instead we stuck to n student life and the odd question on Olympic controversy. Answers were mainly very positive, remarkably assured and believable.


My class of about 15 students were intoduced to two teachers; Liang Peng and Liang Laisho.
We were quickly informed of our Chinese names, and to explain my English name I referenced Harry Potter which made the teacher laugh, signifying the books/films worldwide popularity. My name for the next 3 weeks would be HanHaiRei - this karate kid-like name made feel like I could fully get into China mode, although when our student teacher, the more intense of the two, wrote us chinese-character name tags she seemed more intent on spontaneously testing us.
Now, if you just nod off for say 5-10 minutes thats a whole lot of mandarin you've missed.
"HanHeiRei," she'd call out, as she walked to the opposite side of the room to me, "Ni qu gou ri ben?" (Have you been to Japan, or something else along those lines). And in those jet-lagged moments I would frantically nudge a classmate, generally my Scottish mate Euan, trying to find out the answer. The good thing was these on the spot questions did generally keep me on-the- ball so I could pick up the basics, or more likely Euan had cottoned on to my nodding off and was ready to fill me with the info.


Cultural Times
"It's half hour walk, too far, too far, I think bus or taxi will be best"
The student volunteers didn't seem to think walking should be the chosen option for many cultural trips, and in hindsight, although we often ignored this piece of advice, I can now see why. To cross the road there is a red and green man, normally you would think green is fine to go, but NO. Basically, in general, green is as dangerous as red because cars generally don't stop for any signal. Quite simply you just have to become an aggressive pedestrian; see a gap, go for it.....don't show them you're timid otherwise you'll be honked all the way to Shanghai.
Often the best plan is to go when you seen the locals hit the road (at an olympic like walking pace). Also, at most things cars will hoot, particularly at cyclists, who don't seem to care; they often get nudged off their bikes by taxis, but from what I saw they just pick their bike up and continue as normal.
During these insightful walks the other notable thing was the spitting, which I never really not accustomed to. Both men and women participate, and the worst point is when someone is walking behind you and you just hear the sound.....and expect to find saliva ridden up your trouser leg; luckily I escaped this, there saliva spit precision is quite accurate- I just wish they would water the plants and not the pavements, but each country to their own.

Oh and another quite weird thing was the food on display at the night markets...



Bidding for a starfish, but offered dog (no thanks).....




The Forbidden City

















Built in the Ming/Qing Dynasties this place was overwhelmingly huge and all imposing. It consists of various structures that were used for different tasks, such as animal sacrifical chambers to prayering areas.
The only sad thing about the place is that the historic information is a bit vague and like quite a lot of cultural sites in China tends to reference their poistions as places for amazing tourist interest because of their beautiful architecture (true but where's the historic grit). I did find out however that the place housed quite a lot of concubines- the emperors must have been busy men.

As we walked around we asked a Chinese couple to take a photograph of us (me and a few students from the U.K), and they quite happily did, after which they took a photo on their own camera of us which I found bizarre but hilarious. What do they do with these photographs!? We must be pin-ups on quite a few walls by now.



On the way out of the Forbidden City exit two intrigued-looking Chinese women approached me and my friend Tom. Were we twins? they asked..... and their questions continued. We were used to friendly inquistive Chinese, but we noticed the personal questions that proceeded.
They finished, in their perfect English, by telling us they were going to a park and would we like to go with them and then on for a drink. We concluded that this point that this could be a scam like we had been told about by the university. When we told them we were waiting with friends they looked startled and said goodbye, but instead of walking towards the 'park' they talked of, they walked back to the exit of The Forbidden City. It's amazing that they can speak a second language so well and yet they choose to do this.
It's not easy to get a well paid job in China I guess.

Overall we had walked around for about 5 hours before we strolled out to a hugely communist and historic landmark, Tianamen Square, what a name drop I know....

















Not bad for a summer hangout:

The Summer Palace/China's historic OC




I cannot believe that this place was for such a small amount of people to stay in during the summer; for like an Emperor and co. The place is huge, with a massive lake which we walked the whole way around, and a large temple at the top of a hill where you can see all around the lake. Unfortunately it was quite smoggy when I went up and so the view wasn't that great, however I should point out that in my time in Beijing I experienced a fair few blue skys and the smog wasn't as bad as is made out in Western press, although I did hear that it gets worse in the summer.

Before 1978 Economic Reform: Unhappy faces, after reform: Happy Faces:
An economy lecture


So we had a lecture on Chinese economy, which I was dubious about because in a previous culture talk it had consisted more of a tourism powerpoint tour.
The economy lecturer had studied at York univeristy in England and she did give some interesting information about China's changing economy and growth, with reference to it's struggle in the economic crisis, however I have to be cynical in reaction to some parts of the presentation. I know they have to be careful in regards to criticising the government but the presentation depicted poor streets and unhappy Chinese people before the 1978 economic reform, where there was no motivation for striving for a profitable business, to a photo of happy faces and nice streets after the reform.
Honestly I was pretty shocked that this is how we were shown the change in their economic policy. Also, it was stated that China intends to reach 8% economic growth this year, but how are they going to reach this target? We were not told but I have a feeling it will be to do with investing heavily in places like Africa, which is helping the continent, but at the same time investing further in some of the repressive regimes.
However, we were shown a few interesting graphs depicting both China's growth successes and failures compared, positively and negatively, with countries around their world in relation to different trade practices- so it's wasn't a complete China promotion.



The 'Eight' Wonder of the World:

The Terracotta Army





A group of about 10 of us, from England, Norther Ireland and Scotland, decided we couldn't come to China and not go to what China calls the eight wonder of the world. Officially there's just seven, no!?


Waiting in Beijing West train station, and then on the train..on the bunk-beds.

So after some deliberation we booked sleeper tickets on the 12 hour night train to Xi'an (opposed to booking hard seats which are cheaper but you are not actually guranteed to sit down and could end up standing up for the whole 12 hours at night).
Thank god we decided to opt for the
beds because when we arrived an hour early at Beijing West train station it was absolutley rammed, mainly due to a 3 day festival holiday,
and people were obviously preparing to sprint for a seat. Amongst these preparations for a seat battle I was experiencing the culture shock I had

expected on arrival, with Chinese people trying to subtley take photos and videos of us. As we accepted recognition for this by pulling the favored peace sign or saying Nihao, people often suddenly took down their phones and pretended as if they hadn't been watching....though we did get the odd smile.
The train was a real experience, comparable to those jungle jim places, because everyone is in compartments of 6 bunk beds, 3 on either side with a small corridor at the end and you just hang over each other bunks chatting. I actually slept quite well apart from when I turned to see a chinese women on the bed oppsite me staring wide-eyed.















Arrival

In reaction to some quite negative accounts of The Terracotta Arm I though the place was absolutely amazing, although it's weird that they have built such firm, Egyptian-like structures around the pits, particularly as they are still excavating for more finds.
There are two small pits full of miniature towns with people, horses and pots filling the alleyways and then one huge pit full of the terracotta warriors.




Clearly the army of workers who took part on the construction of these clay objects were not just ordinary workers but many of them must have been amazing sculptural artists, because some of objects are so detailed and realistic.
The large pit is just astounding, it's huge with hundreds of terracotta warriors, all with a different faces and many different races....there's definitely something spooky about them; they look like they could start marching at any moment.
We had hired some audio guides, fully prepared to mke the most of the experience, however much of the information consisted of: 'the left pit is 1.5 metres tall, and is 5 metres way from the right pit.' The factual measurements seemed very important but I wanted to know more about the tribulations that the clay warriors had suffered, because the Emperor after the one who had requested there making for his after life, had tried to burn them all, and also the wooden roof placed on top of them had collapsed and caused many of them to be damaged.
The audio tape did inform us that not one of the warriors is undamaged, oh and that deers were sacrificed because they are 'pure.'
Also there are apparently large parts which have not been uncovered, including mercury rivers, because there is a risk that it could damage current findings. They believe that a whole world was created for the Emperor for his after life, much of it still uncovered- wow.

After that we went to some hot springs, but they're so ancient you can't take a dip so instead we.....

















On the train on the way back we couldn't get beds next to each other, however when we got on the train a really nice but crazy Chinese woman managed to shift the whole carriage about so we could be in the same compartment.


The bit I was staying in had two Chinese women on the bottom two bunks, who sat and talked with us (me, Euan, my Scottish mate and Lindsey, Norther Irish friend) all night, with a bit of their English and a bit of our Chinese. It was great fun, they were testing us on our Chinese as well because they were teachers who had been on a staff trip to the same place as us.
Down the isle a bit further the headmaster and some of the other teachers were having a drink with the rest of our group; drinking rice wine which is pretty strong and tastes foul!



"I can't sing, I can't dance,".... the only thing about me is that I will because China loves both these things.
(In England: If you can't sing you are told not to.
In China: sing at all costs)
The Graduation performance

After being in Beijing for two weeks it was clear that the Chinese loved singing (in general); on a quite a few 'social' occasions we had witnessed Chinese students volunteer to sing in front of us all, although quite a few of the UK students (not me) joined in as well.
I personally have detailed memories of being told not too sing in both primary and secondary school by both teachers and friends. In China, although they particularly commend those who can sing, they are quite intent in getting everyone singing their hearts out. For tone deaf me I found this quite disturbing.



Our group singing at one of the karaoke joints in our own 'lounge.' I think the song was a Boyzone 'hit'.










For our graduation day each class had to do a performance, and my student teacher had chosen us a popular chinese pop song, involving a quite lengthy rap. At first I thought I could stand in the background stepping from side to side with the odd clap. But this was not to be the case. The teacher would call out our Chinese names: "HanHaiRei," she would call out, "louder." So I went with it, caught up in her enthusiasm for my rapping, to the extent where at one point I believed I was quite good. That was until everyone else stopped and I could just hear this monotone drone ringing through my ears. "We practice again our teacher would say." Sometimes practice does not make perfect, believe me.

Student Life

In China it's really hard to get into university in comparison to the amount of univeristies and the huge population/number of applicants. The students I spoke to had really quite long days, although quite a few admitted to skipping lectures.



Amy- student volunteer legend











Weirdly, from a western perspective, male and females stay in different dorms and even in the international halls men and women cannot sleep in each other rooms.
Both these things mean that in the evening when walking around the large campus (which is like a mini town full of restaurants and bar) there are a lot of couples getting it on before they go to bed. Also, there was a curfew at 12am for the Chinese students, and they miss it they will have to stay out all night. This was particularly strange because in the international halls where we were staying there was no curfew, and here's us experiencing the nightlife and the Tsingdao (Chinese beer)....




Secondary school visit

After a tour of a secondary school in Beijing we were all impressed with their amazing sports facilities, including a room full of loads of ping pong tables. A competitive battle followed and we....unsurprisingly lost....




25 minutes of fame:

The Birdsnest Olympic stadium


Seeing China's olympic stadium at first-hand is pretty impressive, the architectural structure is crazy and it's not suprising quite a few people died making it. When we went inside I found it quite a lot smaller than it appeared on television.
About 12 of us sat down on the floor in the centre of the main area where all the athletics took place, and as we chilled in
the sun, I noticed some Chinese people posing behind us........

Getting snapped by the locals

























......Then I looked forward and people were taking photographs, I looked behind again and realised we were the subject of a quite substantial photo shoot with people posing in photos with us.

They were, however, quite shocked when we got up and posed with them....though it was then quite hard to get away!




A few of us waited around till dark to see the stadium lit up, and in between this time we went and had dinner, not realising how efficiently early and on time they turn the lights off. Both the Birdsnest and the Watercube (the swimming arena) looked awesome fully lit-up, but unfortunately they were soon after switched off. It was around 9.30pm, so we only saw them for about 15 minutes, saves electricity I guess.
















Watergate

After seeing the Birdsnest lit up we then went back to our halls where we staying.... to find the Thai's on our floor having a mass waterfight. Suddenly as I walked into my room about 5 thai's, men and women, ran into my room and poured buckets of water onto my head. For about an hour after that it was waterfight war. The photo below shows a bit of the carnage in the corridor.


















Trip to the countryside




















The weekend before the final week of the program we were taken on a trip to the countryside/middle of nowhere...but it was quite nice to get some fresh air. We went on a hike to see these ancient pagondas (shown above). We were then given a bonfire, between 8pm and 9pm, very efficient, but in the end we were allowed it to go on until 9.30pm before we had to go back to the local houses we were staying. 21 and being told to go to bed!haha


A momentous occasion:

Graduation

I felt like I was being inauggorated for a government position at the study program graduation. They had people speaking again from the university (like in the opening ceremony) and they played a video of our time there, which had this highly/overly emotional piece of classical music playing in the background (they had been constantly filming us throughout our time there and it was a bit like being on a reality show).

It was nice the importance they put on our visit....but then we had to perform. Why oh why. Our performance was painful but they clapped, in-fact they clapped happily to every performance no batter how bizarre or out of tune.







Afterwards we had a 'banquet' laid out for us....


Alone in Beijing:

My days after the program

As all my fellow study program students flew home I stayed as I had organised to fly out a few days after so I could see how I faired on my own.
When everyone left I suddenly realised how different it is to be on your own in the capital and how many Chinese people there are in Beijing (derr! I know).
I took the bus and the subway and walked around the city, sometimes attempting to ask for directions and sometimes getting answers. Generally I'd say 50% of the people stare at you; it's not rude and most people are friendly but it's weird when you are strolling on your own


Harry, Harry, dance, dance ya!!!

Thai New Year: Watergate 2

After living in the international halls next to some thai students for three weeks we had become quite good friends with them, although the majority could not speak English (I did not expect them to obviously).
The friendship actually started after 'watergate,' and when one Thai lady, Kong Kung, who was training to become a teacher, found out I was staying on after the program and invited me to Songkran, a festival on Saturday 18th April to celebrate Thai New Year. So I agreed and off we set at 12pm, me and a lot of Thais, Koreans, Vietnamese and Taiwanese. It was crazy, and I had no idea what was going on.





A Taiwanese women who spoke English took me under her wing and showed me around the festival, whilst I quizzed her about China-Taiwan relations - she was not negative, but did mention that her blog which talked about both countries had been blocked.
As we walked towards the stage Kong saw me, she grabbed my hand and dragged me up onto the stage. Before I knew it I was standing in front of hundreds of people with no idea what I was meant to be doing. "DANCE, YA," Kong shouted, "Like this" (she motioned a dance action I had never seen before, but I followed in fear. People cheered, in sympathy probably but it was quite fun.
As this festival signifies a hot time of year where the Buddha needs cooling down there is a tradition to poor water over a buddha statue, which I did, after studying the other people in the group. But then a mass water fight started, unfortunately I went to fill up my bottle as the water truck arrived. Basically I looked like I had been in a severe monsoon. It was awesome.


A foreign investment:

The Global Times

Whilst in my last days in Beijing, a new English translated newspaper was launched by the government, The Global Times. I had actually read the newspaper before finding out if was run by the government, and according to various English press, it's aim is to spread the parties view to the international community in China and, in reference to the official aim, to improve relations with foreign countries. After I read these aims the various articles about countries donating gifts or building new embassies made sense.
Some of the articles were of real interest and quite negative, but who knows what they choose not to put in. Apparently there are significant differences between the Chinese version and the English version, with more reliance on a nationalist theme than in the foreign version. Western media has also pointe dout that people living in China who speak English will not read the paper because internet news is more favoured, which, after speaking to quite a few English speaking Asians I agree with; many of them use sites such as the BBC.


3.5 hours too far for one american family:

Great wall hike

So I'd been to Badaling, and although it was good, it was packed full of tourists and a lot of it's re-built.... so I wanted to go to a more un-touristy, original part. I took a bus for 3 hours from Peking Downtown Backpackers Accomodation to the Jing Ling part, with some Danish girls, an American family, a Brazilian man and a Spanish women. When we arrived we took a cable car up to the top of a large 'hill' and began the hike. This part of the wall was just awesome, surrounded by greenery and with some parts resembling ruins. The beginning was pretty steep but it evened out, and to some spectacular views of the countryside.









At one point as walked through one of the 30 towers on route, we realised that on the other side there was a large drop in the path where the wall had fallen away, so we had a rather large challenge trying to get down. In fact I had to catch the 4ft Spanish women as she dropped down.
As we waited for the American family below the tower they came strolling carelessley to the right of us. It turned out there was a path around the tower which was 'safe,' oppossed to our route which the guide described as 'very dangerous, no go that way.'
Oh health and safety. But in the American women's words: "Y'all survived, well done."

We walked for 3 and 1/2 hours until we were picked up at the other end, and the walk had taken it's toll on the American family; the son who had been before had clearly down played the trek to his parents, and the mum proceeded to throw up as we began driving back.

Back at the hostel where I was staying, situated in a Hutong, one of the old streets which the government are trying to knock down to replace with newer buildings - they tried to knock most of them down before the Olympics but failed.
At the hostel I talked to a Taiwanese women, who was not particularly happy about the Chinese women behind the reception who was confused by her Taiwan passport. She reiterated to me that China has seen Taiwan as a province of China ever since the Ming/Qing dynasties travelled to the island centuries ago. However, she explained how shocked she was when she spoke to some young Chinese people who said they had no idea Taiwan wanted to be it's own country.

Finally

My last two days involved strolling around 798, the art district, which is exhibits art work in an area of old industrial buildings. On my last full night I stayed at my mates house (in Bei Wa Lu in the south-west of Beijing) who is studying Chinese. That night I had an amazing meal because he knew exactly what to pick after living there since September. Although now he has to go to the gym a fair bit to avoid the Beijing belly which I need to now work off!

I flew back at midnight on the 22nd and I'm back home now, enjoying sandwiches and cereal and watching the news, all so bizarrely different, but thats what makes China so interesting, right from the smallest things there are quite substantial differences.

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